Backwards and upside down

Backwards and upside down

 

Tubular knitting is an easy technique and has lots of possibilities, but . . . . how do you bind off?

Think about it … maybe you normally use a round-the-gate peg bind off, and you start on the right side of the main bed. What happens when it comes time to bind off the ribber stitches … ever try working backwards and upside down on the ribber?
To bind off circular knitting, knit a few rows of waste yarn and drop the work from the machine. Then you have some better bind off choices:

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Brother Stitch World Books

Brother Stitch World Books

One extremely valuable resource for machine knitters are the Brother Stitch World Books. They display a treasure-trove of stitch patterns that can be the source of inspiration for any knitting machine.

If you have an electronic machine and are lucky enough to use DAK, you can download the patterns.

Don’t forget to bookmark the manuals you use all the time

Diary of a tired machine knitter :-)

Diary of a tired machine knitter :-)

Watch the video “Rip and Rehang”
What happens when you should have quit an hour ago?  Why do we always want to finish … just one more section?

Knitting merrily along (in tuck) and oops!

I was determined not to rip both the bodice and the entire skirt …..

DUHHHH…. remember lifelines?

Instead of giving up and tossing the whole thing, I carefully picked up the stitches at the decorative join. I experimented with a couple of different methods to pick up those darned, teeny, tiny stitches:

  1. Tiny circular hand knitting needle
  2. Darning needle and ravel cord
  3. Double Eye needle and Ravel cord
  4. Blocking wire
  5. Wire from ribber cast on comb

Can you guess which one worked best?
Whew, I saved it! …. lights out … tomorrow is another day!

Watch the video “Rip and Rehang”

Tension Swatch, Gauge Swatch and Mystery Yarn

Tension Swatch, Gauge Swatch and Mystery Yarn

Want to learn more? – check out the Machine Knitting Course “Swatches, Tension and Gauge”
FREE for Subscribers

We tend to use the terms “tension swatch” and “gauge swatch” interchangeably.
For me, the GAUGE SWATCH is the “official” swatch when designing a garment.  It is knit at a specific size, marked for accurate stitch and row measurement and “dressed” as the final garment will be treated. There are a number of tutorials in the Knit it Now Learning Library on this subject.
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Ugly Set in Sleeves

Ugly Set in Sleeves

A fellow knitter recently commented that her set in sleeve pattern instructions looked “wonky”. There were 74 rows in the armhole opening and 62 rows in the sleeve cap. She thought the sleeve cap was “too short”.

Taking a look at how a set in sleeve is inserted in the armhole, notice that the red line MUST be the same length as the green line.  If the sleeve cap had an equal number of rows, it would be too big for the armhole!

The number of rows for her sleeve was correct. (After knitting and setting in her sleeve, she was convinced)

There are 3 common reasons for set in sleeve failure … learn to avoid them!

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Don’t measure on the machine

Don’t measure on the machine
Unlike hand knitters, we can’t measure our work as we are knitting. The stitches are stretched and distorted as they are formed on the needlebed.
This is why swatching and accurate gauge measurement are critical.
We keep track of stitches AND rows to ensure that our finished piece is the correct size.

When knitting our Asymmetric Shawlette, it is tempting to “guestimate” the length while the knitting is still on the machine.
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